Aquarium Dashboard 180L Planted Tank

Dashboard
Dosing Principles
Timeline
🐠 Fish & Shrimp Stocking: -
🌿 Plants Set all sizes to 0 to exclude. Hover size label for description.
💡 Lighting
Effective: - lm | PAR: - umol/m2/s | CCT: ~5,150K | 07:00-09:00 + 16:00-22:00 (8h)
🧪 Recommended Dosing (auto-calculated)
Bottle Life & Cost
📚 Dosing Cross-Check (literature-based, independent of plant species)
Uses standard EI ranges from Tom Barr / 2HR Aquarist / aquariumscience.org. Same tank, water, fish, and light, but replaces per-species plant estimates with a single "plant density" slider.
SparseLightModerateDenseJungle
🐟 Feeding
💧 Water Parameters (Zelivka)
Yearly Averages (PVK 2025)
ParamValueUnit
pH7.84
Conductivity31.8mS/m
GH5.9dH
KH3.0dKH
Ca29.7mg/l
Mg7.7mg/l
K4.2mg/l
NO325.1mg/l
Fe0.02mg/l
Free Cl0.11mg/l
Actual - loading...
🏠 Tank Info
SubstratePlatinum Soil 16L, 4cm
FilterFluval 307
CO2Liquid (INVITAL Carbon)
DosersInvital Nutribot x2
FeederINVITAL auto, Hikari Micro Pellets
WC50% / 14 days, slow drip
🔧 Maintenance
📏 What to Test and When
WhenTestTargetWhat it tells you
Every 2 weeks (on WC day, before WC)JBL 7v1 strip: NO3, pHNO3: 15-30 mg/L, pH: 7.0-7.4NO3 shows if fish + tap + plants are balanced. pH tracks soil buffering health.
MonthlyJBL 7v1 strip: full (NO2, NO3, GH, KH, pH, Cl2, CO2)NO2=0, KH 1-3, GH 4-8Full health check. NO2 should always be 0 in a cycled tank. KH/GH track water stability.
After adding fishNO2 + NO3 (days 1, 3, 7)NO2=0Verifies filter bacteria can handle the new bioload. If NO2 appears, stop feeding 1 day.
After changing dosingNO3 + pH (after 2 weeks)Same targetsConfirms the change had the intended effect. Wait full cycle before judging.
If something looks wrongEverything you canTest first, act second. Never adjust dosing based on gut feeling alone.
RULE: Test BEFORE water change (pre-WC values). This is when nutrients are at their highest, showing the worst case. If pre-WC NO3 is 25-30, you are fine. If it is 40+, reduce feeding.
🌿 Plant Visual Indicators (Your Best Diagnostic Tool)
Plants tell you what is wrong faster and more reliably than test kits. Learn to read them. The key distinction: OLD leaves (bottom) vs NEW leaves (top/center) tells you which nutrient is missing.
What you seeWhere on plantLikely causeAdjust whatHow much
Yellow new leaves, veins stay greenNewest growth at tipsIron (Fe) deficiencyIncrease Ferox+20% for 2 weeks, then reassess
Overall pale/yellow old leaves, starting from bottomOldest leaves first, moves upNitrogen (NO3) deficiencyIncrease feeding slightly, or add more fishThis is rare with 19.5 mg/L tap NO3. If it happens, your plants outgrew your fish load.
Pinholes in old leaves, tiny holes appearingOlder leaves, mid-plantPotassium (K) deficiencyIncrease Ferox (contains K)+20% for 2 weeks
Dark, discolored old leaves falling offOldest leaves, base of stemsPhosphate (PO4) deficiencyIncrease Fosfo+25% for 2 weeks
Yellowing between veins, veins stay green on old leavesOlder leavesMagnesium (Mg) deficiencyAdd MgSO4 at water change1 teaspoon INVITAL Magnesium Plus in WC bucket
Twisted, deformed new growthNewest leaves onlyCalcium (Ca) deficiencyAdd GH booster at water changeRare with Zelivka water (31.5 mg/L Ca). If it happens, add INVITAL MineralPlus to WC bucket.
Red plants turning greenWhole plantNot enough iron or lightIncrease Ferox + check light %+15% Ferox. Ensure light at 100% and red plants are under the brightest spot (center, not corners).
Stunted, compact growth, plants barely growingWhole plantCO2 deficiencyIncrease Carbon+25% for 2 weeks. Or check if the bottle ran empty.
Very long stems, small leaves (stretching toward light)Stem plantsNot enough lightIncrease light %+10-15%. Or check if floating plants are blocking too much surface (thin them).
Crypt melt (leaves dissolving into mush)Cryptocoryne species onlyNormal after transplanting or big parameter changeNothing. Leave the roots alone.New leaves grow back in 2-4 weeks. Do NOT uproot.
THE GOLDEN RULE: New leaves affected = immobile nutrients missing (Fe, Ca, Mn). Old leaves affected = mobile nutrients missing (N, P, K, Mg). Plants move mobile nutrients from old to new growth when deficient, sacrificing old leaves.
🟢 Algae as a Diagnostic Tool
Algae is not a disease. It is a SIGNAL that something is out of balance. Do not fight algae with chemicals. Fix the underlying cause.
Algae typeLooks likeRoot causeFix
Brown diatomsBrown dusty film on glass and leavesNew tank (months 1-3), silicates from tap waterNothing. It goes away on its own. Otocinclus eat it. Do NOT increase light or change dosing.
Green spot algae (GSA)Hard green dots on glass, slow-growingPO4 too lowIncrease Fosfo by 25%. Clean glass with magnetic scraper.
Green dust algae (GDA)Soft green film on glass, returns daily after wipingImbalance during tank maturationDo NOT wipe for 2-3 weeks (let it complete life cycle), then wipe + large WC. It disappears permanently.
Black beard algae (BBA)Dark tufts on leaf edges, filter outlet, hardscapeFluctuating or low CO2Increase Carbon by 25-30%. Ensure dosing is consistent (same time daily). Spot-treat affected leaves with undiluted Carbon using a syringe (lights off).
Hair/thread algaeLong green strands, tangles around plantsAmmonia spike (from soil, dead fish, overfeeding) + high lightReduce light to 6h for 2 weeks. Check for dead fish hidden in plants. Reduce feeding by 30%. Manually remove as much as possible. Amano shrimp eat it.
Green water (pea soup)Water turns green, can't see throughMassive algae bloom from excess light + nutrientsBlackout: cover tank with blanket for 3-4 days (lights completely off). Then reduce photoperiod to 6h for 2 weeks. UV sterilizer helps prevent recurrence.
Staghorn algaeGray-green branching strands on leaf edgesLow CO2, poor water circulationIncrease Carbon. Check filter flow (is it clogged?). Improve circulation near affected area.
Blue-green algae (cyanobacteria)Slimy blue-green sheet, peels off in layers, smells badVery low NO3, poor circulation, dirty substrateIncrease water circulation. Do extra WC. If NO3 is below 10: feed more. In severe cases: 3-day blackout.
PRIORITY ORDER when you have algae: 1) Check CO2/Carbon dosing. 2) Check light duration (8h max). 3) Check nutrients (NO3, PO4). 4) Check feeding amount. 5) Manual removal + WC. Algae chemicals are LAST resort and usually unnecessary.
🐠 Fish Behavior Indicators
BehaviorLikely causeImmediate action
Gasping at surfaceLow oxygen (high temp, dead plant mass rotting, filter off)Increase surface agitation. 30% WC. Check filter is running. Check temperature.
Loss of color, hidingStress from parameters, disease, or aggressionTest water. Check for aggressive tankmate. Ensure hiding spots (plants, caves).
Scratching on objects (flashing)Parasites (Ich, flukes) or irritation from chemicalsObserve for white spots. If Ich: raise temp to 28C for 10 days. If no spots: 30% WC (possible chemical irritant).
Not eatingStress, disease, or wrong food sizeTry different food. Check water parameters. If single fish: isolate and observe.
Shrimp swimming franticallySudden parameter change (after WC too fast, or chemical)Did you add water too fast? Did you forget AquaFresh? Do a small 10% WC with treated water, slowly.
Shrimp not molting (white ring of death)GH too low, Ca/Mg deficiencyTest GH. If below 4: add INVITAL MineralPlus to WC bucket.
🔧 Dosing Adjustment Protocol
The 3 Rules
Rule 1: Change ONE thing at a time. If you change Ferox AND light AND feeding simultaneously, you will never know which change fixed (or caused) the problem.
Rule 2: Wait 2 weeks before judging. Plants respond slowly. A dosing change today shows visible results in 10-14 days. Test on WC day to compare same point in cycle.
Rule 3: Adjust by 15-25%, not 50% or 100%. Small steps prevent overcorrection. Going from 7ml Ferox to 8ml is a 14% increase, a good increment.
When to Increase Each Product
ProductIncrease when you seeHow muchCheck after
Ferox (Fe + K + micros)Yellow new leaves (Fe), pinholes in old leaves (K), red plants turning green, pale overall growth+15-20% (+1ml/day)2 weeks: new growth should be greener, pinholes stop appearing on new leaves
Fosfo (PO4)Old leaves darkening and falling, green spot algae on glass, very slow growth despite good light+25% (+0.5ml/day)2 weeks: GSA on glass stops spreading, old leaf loss slows
Carbon (liquid CO2)BBA on leaf edges, stunted compact growth, staghorn algae, plants growing slowly despite good nutrients+25% (+0.5-1ml/day)2 weeks: new growth should be normal-sized. BBA stops spreading (existing BBA won't disappear, trim affected leaves).
Feeding (Hikari)Fish look thin, overall plant yellowing from bottom (N deficiency, rare), NO3 test consistently below 10+1 click on auto-feeder portion2 weeks: test NO3, should increase 3-5 mg/L
When to Decrease Each Product
ProductDecrease when you seeHow muchCheck after
FeroxExcessive algae growth with good plant growth (nutrients too high), or if dashboard cross-check says dose is significantly above literature-15% (-1ml/day)2 weeks: less algae on glass
FosfoHair algae appearing AND test shows NO3 above 30-20% (-0.3ml/day)2 weeks
CarbonFish gasping or behaving oddly right after dosing (overdose can harm fish)-25%Immediate. If fish recover within 1h, the old dose was too high.
FeedingUneaten food on bottom after 5 min, NO3 consistently above 35, algae problems-1 click on auto-feeder2 weeks: NO3 should drop 3-5 mg/L
The "Reset" Protocol (When Everything Goes Wrong)
Step 1: Large water change: 70% instead of usual 50%. Pre-heat, AquaFresh 13ml (scale up from 9ml), slow drip 60 min.
Step 2: Return all dosing to dashboard-calculated defaults. Reset plant sizes to what you actually see in the tank.
Step 3: Reduce light to 75% for 2 weeks.
Step 4: Clean glass, manually remove all visible algae, trim heavily-affected leaves.
Step 5: Wait 2 full WC cycles (4 weeks) before adjusting anything. Test weekly during this period.
A reset works because the large WC removes accumulated imbalances, and going back to calculated defaults eliminates guesswork. Patience is the hardest part.
🌡️ Seasonal Adjustments
SeasonWhat changesWhat to adjust
Summer (June-Aug)Room temp rises (26-28C possible), plants grow faster, more evaporationIf temp stays below 27C: no action needed. Above 27C: increase surface agitation, consider partial lid opening. Plants consume more, dosing may need +10-15%. Top up evaporated water (with AquaFresh-treated tap).
Winter (Nov-Feb)Room cooler (heater works harder), daylight changes, Zelivka NO3 rises to ~25 mg/LCheck heater maintains 25C. Growth may slow slightly, this is normal. If NO3 tests show 30+, reduce feeding slightly. No dosing change needed.
Spring/AutumnTransition periods, most stableBest time for major changes (adding fish, rescaping). Avoid major changes in peak summer/winter.
Zelivka tap water NO3 varies seasonally: ~19.5 mg/L in spring/summer, ~25 mg/L in autumn/winter (from PVK annual data). The dashboard uses 19.5, so in winter your actual NO3 may be 3-5 mg/L higher than predicted. This is within the safe range and needs no action.
📊 Quick Decision Flowchart
Plants growing well, no algae, fish active? -> Change nothing. This is success. Enjoy your tank.
Plants growing well BUT algae appearing? -> Reduce light by 10% OR reduce photoperiod by 1h. Wait 2 weeks.
Plants growing slowly, no algae? -> Increase Carbon +25%. If no improvement in 2 weeks, increase Ferox +15%.
Plants growing slowly WITH algae? -> This is the classic CO2 problem. Increase Carbon +25%, reduce light -15%. Wait 2 weeks.
Specific deficiency symptoms visible? -> Use the Plant Visual Indicators table above. Adjust the one product indicated. Wait 2 weeks.
Everything falling apart? -> Do the Reset Protocol. Don't panic.
90% of planted tank problems are solved by: correct CO2 (Carbon dose), correct light (not too much), and patience (wait 2 weeks). Nutrient deficiency is actually rare with EI dosing, because EI deliberately provides excess.
📋 Complete Guide: Day 0 to Year 4
Shopping List (order 2 weeks before setup)
From rostlinna-akvaria.cz:
Platinum Soil 2x 8L (16L total, do NOT buy gravel)
All plants (buy small sizes, they grow). See Dashboard for your plant list.
INVITAL Ferox 500ml, INVITAL Fosfo 500ml, INVITAL Carbon 500ml
INVITAL AquaFresh 250ml (dechlorinator with humic acids)
Seachem Stability 100ml (bacterial starter for cycling)
JBL Easy PRO Aquatest 7v1 (strip tests: NO2, NO3, GH, KH, pH, Cl2, CO2)
Hikari Micro Pellets 45g (auto-feeder food)
Other supplies:
Programmable timer plug (must support 2 daily on/off programs)
Voltage controller for LED strips (to dim to 75% during first months)
2x large bucket (10-15L each), 1x 90L container or bathtub for WC water
Airline tubing + flow valve (for slow drip water addition)
Aquarium heater for the WC bucket (to pre-heat new water)
Long tweezers (for planting, ~30cm)
Flat plate or saucer (to place on soil while filling, prevents disturbance)
Superglue gel (cyanoacrylate, for attaching moss/epiphytes to hardscape)
Day 0: Tank Setup
Step 1: Soil. Open Platinum Soil bags, pour directly into dry tank. Do NOT rinse. Shape a gentle slope: ~2.5cm at front glass, ~4cm middle, ~5.5cm at rear glass.
Tip: use a ruler or credit card to smooth the slope. Deeper in back creates visual depth.
Step 2: Hardscape. Place driftwood and rocks on the soil BEFORE adding water. Press them down gently into the soil so they don't float or shift later.
Step 3: Fill VERY SLOWLY. Place a plate or saucer flat on the soil surface. Point the hose onto the plate so water flows gently without blasting the soil. Fill to ~50% height first.
CRITICAL: If you pour water directly onto the soil, it will crater and cloud the water for weeks. The plate prevents this. Go slow, 15-20 minutes to half-fill.
Step 4: Equipment. Start Fluval 307 filter (prime it first per manual). Set heater to 25C. Turn on UV sterilizer. Plug in timer for lights.
Step 5: Bacteria. Add Seachem Stability: 20ml (5ml per 40L) poured directly into the filter intake or filter media compartment.
Step 6: Lights. Set timer: 07:00-09:00 ON + 17:00-22:00 ON (evening starts 1h later than final schedule). Set voltage controller to 75% (~10.5V).
The tank will be VERY cloudy. This is 100% normal, tannins and fine particles from the soil. It clears in 2-7 days. Do NOT do a water change to fix it, just let the filter work.
Day 1: Planting Day
Prepare all plants in trays of tank water. Remove gel/rockwool from in-vitro cups (wash thoroughly under tap). Split potted plants from wool, divide into smaller portions.
Plant background first (while water is at ~50%). Push stem bases 2-3cm into soil with long tweezers. Space stems 2-3cm apart in groups. Work from back to front.
Plant midground. Place Crypts with roots spread, crown at soil surface (not buried). For Tiger Lotus: half-bury the bulb (top half exposed).
Attach epiphytes to hardscape. Tie Anubias, Java Fern, Bucephalandra to rocks/wood with cotton thread OR dab of superglue gel. Do NOT bury their rhizomes in soil (they rot).
Attach mosses. Spread thin layers of Christmas Moss on rocks/driftwood. Tie with cotton thread or glue. Thin layer = faster, denser regrowth.
Plant foreground last. Divide Helanthium/Staurogyne into small plugs (1-3 stems each). Plant in a grid pattern, 2-3cm apart. More plugs = faster carpet.
Fill to top slowly over the plate again. Remove plate. Add floating plants (Salvinia etc.) gently on surface.
Start INVITAL Carbon at HALF dose: 1.5 ml/day. This helps plants AND inhibits algae from day 1.
Add Stability dose 2 (20ml into filter).
Some leaves will melt in the first week, especially Cryptocoryne. This is completely normal, called "crypt melt." New submerged leaves will grow back within 2-3 weeks. Do NOT remove the plant, leave it alone.
Day 2-7: First Week
Add Stability 20ml daily (pour into filter intake)
Carbon 1.5ml/day (manual dose or via doser)
Cloudiness should start clearing by day 3-5
NO fertilizers (Ferox/Fosfo) yet. Soil is releasing nutrients. NO fish.
Test water on day 5: use JBL 7v1 strip. You should see NH3/NH4 rising (0.5-2 mg/L). This is good, it means cycling has started.
DO NOT PANIC if NH3 is high. There are no fish yet. High ammonia during cycling is expected and necessary. The bacteria need it as food to establish.
DO NOT do a water change during the first 2 weeks unless NH3 goes above 4 mg/L (extremely unlikely with plants).
Weeks 2-6: Fishless Cycling
The nitrogen cycle: Ammonia (from soil) -> Nitrite (first bacteria) -> Nitrate (second bacteria). Dense planting absorbs ammonia directly, shortening the cycle to 3-5 weeks.
WeekWhat you should see on test stripWhat to dose
2NH3 still high, NO2 starts appearingStability 20ml/day. Carbon 1.5ml. Start Ferox 2ml/day (25% dose, helps plant roots)
3NH3 dropping, NO2 at peak (may be dark pink on strip)Same. Start Fosfo 0.5ml/day (25% dose)
4NO2 dropping, NO3 rising. Plants showing new growth!Continue 25% doses. Stability every 2 days now.
5-6NH3=0, NO2=0 for 3+ days in a row. NO3 present.CYCLE COMPLETE! Increase to 50% doses (Ferox 3.5ml, Fosfo 0.85ml).
Test 2x per week (e.g., Wednesday + Sunday). Write down results on paper or phone.
COMMON MISTAKE: Adding fish before cycle is complete. If NO2 is not ZERO, do NOT add any fish. Fish will die from nitrite poisoning. Be patient. The cycle completes on its own schedule.
COMMON MISTAKE: Doing large water changes during cycling. This removes the ammonia bacteria need. Only do a WC if NH3 exceeds 4 mg/L.
During this time: observe plants. New leaves emerging? Good. Brown/melting leaves? Normal for Crypts, Bucephalandra. Stem plants growing visibly? Perfect.
Trim any dead leaves that are fully decayed (brown mush). Leave partially melted leaves alone.
Weeks 6-10: Adding Livestock (the exciting part)
GOLDEN RULE: Add fish SLOWLY, in small batches, over several weeks. Never add everything at once. The filter bacteria need time to grow to match the new bioload.
WhenWhat to doDosing change
Day ~42Shrimp first. Add Neocaridina x15. Drip acclimate 45-60 min (float bag 15 min for temp, then drip tank water into bag slowly). Shrimp are the most sensitive, so they're your "canary in the coal mine."Increase to 75%: Ferox 5ml, Fosfo 1.3ml
Day 44-46Watch shrimp. Active, grazing on surfaces, not hiding in corners = good. Dead shrimp within 24h = water problem, test immediately.
Day 47First fish batch. Add 10x Cardinal Tetras + 1 Honey Gourami. Bag float 20 min (temp), then drip acclimate 30 min. Turn off lights during acclimation (reduces stress).FULL dosing. Set dosers to calculated amounts.
Day 48Start auto-feeder. Load Hikari Micro Pellets. Set to 07:10 + 18:00. Use smallest portion setting. Watch first 2 feedings to ensure fish eat within 2-3 min.
Day 49Add Amano shrimp x6 (drip acclimate 45 min). Amanos are robust, can go in now.
Day 55FIRST WATER CHANGE. This is the most important one to get right. See WC Protocol below.
Day 62Second fish batch. Add remaining 10x Cardinals + 1 Honey Gourami. Same acclimation procedure.
Wk 10-12Otocinclus last. Only add when you see greenish algae film on the glass (they need this to eat). If no algae yet, wait 2-4 more weeks. Add 6x Otocinclus.
COMMON MISTAKE: Adding Otocinclus to a clean tank. They will starve. Wait for algae film first.
COMMON MISTAKE: Not acclimating. Dumping fish directly from bag into tank causes shock from temperature and pH difference (bag pH rises during transport). Always drip acclimate.
Water Change Protocol (NON-NEGOTIABLE for shrimp safety)
Your tap water pH is 7.97, tank pH is ~7.0-7.2. This 0.8 pH difference + temperature difference can kill baby shrimp if water is added too fast. The slow drip method is mandatory.
Day before WC: Fill 90L container with tap water. Add 9ml INVITAL AquaFresh immediately (dechlorinator). Place aquarium heater in the container, set to 25C. Leave overnight.
WC morning, Step 1: Remove old water. Use a siphon hose. Siphon out ~90L (50%). Lightly hover the siphon over the soil surface to pick up debris, but do NOT dig into the soil or push the siphon down.
Step 2: Check new water temperature. Must be 24-25C (within 1C of tank). If not warm enough, wait or add some hot water to the container.
Step 3: Add new water SLOWLY. Use airline tubing with a flow valve (knot or clip). Run from the container (elevated) to the tank. Target: 45-60 minutes for 90L. That is about 1.5-2L per minute.
CRITICAL: Do NOT pour 90L in at once or even over 10 minutes. The pH shock will stress or kill baby shrimp. The Platinum Soil needs time to buffer the incoming high-pH water. Slow = safe.
Step 4: After WC. Check heater is back on. Dosers will fire at 15:45 automatically. Update "Last WC" date on dashboard.
Frequency: Every 14 days (biweekly). Pick a consistent day (e.g., every other Sunday).
Months 1-3: Establishment
Biweekly WC following the protocol above. No shortcuts.
Lighting ramp-up: Month 1: 75% (10.5V) | Month 2: 80% (11V) | Month 3: 100% (12V). Gradual increase prevents algae while plants are still establishing.
Monthly test: JBL 7v1 strip. Target: NO3 15-25 mg/L, pH 7.0-7.2. Write it down.
Trim stem plants when they reach the surface. Cut the top 10-15cm, remove the bottom portion, replant the trimmed top. This makes stems bushier with more side shoots.
Clean glass with a magnetic algae scraper before each WC (debris gets siphoned out).
Thin floating plants every WC day. Keep 30-40% of surface open (gourami need surface access for breathing). Compost or discard the excess.
WHAT IS NORMAL: Brown diatom algae on glass and leaves during months 1-2. This is expected in every new tank. It disappears on its own. Otocinclus will clean it. Do NOT increase lighting to fight it (that makes it worse).
WHAT IS NORMAL: Cryptocoryne melt continuing. Some Crypts melt twice before establishing. Leave them alone. New leaves are growing at the base even while old leaves melt.
WHAT IS NOT NORMAL: Green hair algae everywhere. This means too much light or too few plants consuming nutrients. Reduce light to 6h for 2 weeks, increase Carbon by 25%.
Month 3-6: Growing In (Dashboard represents this state)
Full dosing as dashboard calculates. Adjust plant sizes on Dashboard to match reality, press Recalculate.
Carpet (Helanthium) should be spreading noticeably. Fill gaps by splitting dense patches and replanting into bare spots.
Background stems need trimming every 2-3 weeks. Always replant tops, discard bottoms (bottoms get woody and ugly).
Tiger Lotus management: It will send stems to the surface with lily pad leaves. You have two choices: (1) Trim all surface stems at the base to keep it submerged, or (2) Let 1-2 pads reach the surface for a dramatic look (gourami love resting on them). If left unchecked, it can shade the entire tank.
Check doser containers every 6-8 weeks. Ferox runs out fastest (~10 weeks per 500ml bottle). Refill before it empties.
Clean auto-feeder drum every 4-6 weeks. Humidity can clump the pellets and jam the mechanism.
Press Save on the Dashboard after updating plant sizes, to persist your data to GitHub.
Month 6-12: Stable Operation
Month 6 review (important): Look at the overall tank and check these signs:
ObservationWhat it meansAction
Plants growing explosively, trimming every weekNutrients are plentiful, great!Can increase Ferox by 15% if you want even faster growth
Green algae appearing on glass/leavesLight/nutrient imbalanceReduce Carbon dose, check NO3 (if >30, reduce feeding). Ensure photoperiod is 8h, not more.
Red plants (Ludwigia, Alternanthera) turning greenNot enough iron or lightIncrease Fosfo slightly (+0.3ml/day). Ensure red plants are directly under lights, not in corners.
Plants looking pale/yellowIron or micro deficiencyIncrease Ferox by 20%. Check if doser is actually dispensing (not clogged).
Shrimp breeding, babies everywhereExcellent water quality!No action needed. Population self-regulates.
Full filter clean every 6 months. Open the Fluval 307, rinse all sponges and biomedia IN TANK WATER (squeeze in a bucket of old tank water). Never rinse under tap water (chlorine kills beneficial bacteria instantly).
COMMON MISTAKE: Cleaning filter media with tap water. This kills ALL the beneficial bacteria and crashes the cycle. Use only old tank water from the WC siphon.
Month 12-24: Monitor Soil Buffering
Platinum Soil buffers pH by absorbing Ca/Mg from the water. With your soft Zelivka water, this lasts 18-30 months (longer than with hard water). As buffering declines, pH slowly rises toward tap level (7.97).
Monthly pH test (important from month 12). Log the results. Trend matters more than absolute number.
pH readingWhat it meansWhat to do
7.0-7.2Soil still buffering wellNothing. All good.
7.2-7.4 (creeping up over weeks)Buffering starting to declineNormal aging. Most fish and plants are fine at 7.3-7.4. Just continue monitoring.
Above 7.4 consistentlyBuffering nearly exhaustedTank is now running at near-tap pH. This is fine for most community fish. Shrimp may breed less. Consider pH buffer products if concerned.
THIS IS NOT AN EMERGENCY. Soil buffering decline is gradual (months, not days). Your fish and plants will adapt naturally. No sudden changes needed.
Month 24-36: Soil Nutrients Depleting
Soil nutrients (iron, potassium, trace elements stored in the soil granules) start running out after ~24 months.
Signs: Root-feeding plants (Crypts, Helanthium) may grow slightly slower. Leaf color may become less vibrant.
Action: Increase Ferox from the dashboard-calculated dose to ~15-20% more. Update quantities on Dashboard and recalculate.
Water column EI dosing now carries the full nutrient load. This is expected and the tank performs fine this way. Many planted tanks run 5+ years on depleted soil with water column dosing only.
You do NOT need root tabs. The EI method provides all nutrients through the water column, which all aquatic plants can absorb through their leaves.
Year 3-4: The Decision Point
Option A: Continue as-is (recommended if tank looks good)
Just keep dosing, doing WCs, and trimming. The substrate becomes inert but the plants feed from the water column. Most aquascapers run tanks 5-7 years on original substrate. If it's not broken, don't fix it.
Option B: Full rescape (if you want a fresh start)
Move fish to a temporary container (large bucket with heater + airstone). Drain tank. Remove old soil. Add new Platinum Soil 16L. Refill slowly. Replant (reuse healthy plants, buy new ones for gaps). Beneficial bacteria in the filter survive, so the new cycle is 1-2 weeks (not 6). Add fish back after testing NH3=0 and NO2=0.
A full rescape is a weekend project. Plan for it on a Saturday morning.
Annual Maintenance Calendar
FrequencyTask
Daily (auto)Dosers fire at 15:45: Ferox + Fosfo + Carbon. Auto-feeder at 07:10 + 18:00. Lights 07:00-09:00 + 16:00-22:00.
WeeklyQuick visual check: all fish present? Plants look healthy? Any algae? Takes 2 minutes.
Biweekly50% water change: pre-heat 90L + AquaFresh 9ml, siphon, slow drip 45 min. Thin floating plants. Clean glass.
MonthlyJBL 7v1 test strip (NO3, pH). Trim stem plants. Update Dashboard if plant sizes changed.
Every 6-8 weeksRefill doser containers (check all 3). Clean auto-feeder drum.
Every 6 monthsFull filter clean (rinse in TANK water, never tap).
Monthly from Y1Log pH (track soil buffering trend).
Emergency Reference
ProblemLikely causeImmediate actionFollow-up
Fish gasping at surfaceLow oxygen, high NH3, or temperature spike30% water change immediately, increase surface agitationTest NH3/NO2. Check heater (malfunction?). Check filter (running?).
Shrimp dying after WCWater added too fast (pH/TDS shock)Stop adding water. Wait. Do not add more.Next time: slower drip (60 min). Check temperature match. Did you add AquaFresh?
Shrimp dying randomlyCopper poisoning (from pipes) or NO2Test NO2. 20% WC with AquaFresh.AquaFresh binds heavy metals. Ensure you use it every WC.
NH3 or NO2 spike (after cycling)Dead fish decaying, filter crash, or overfeeding30% WC + Seachem Stability 20ml. Reduce feeding by 50%.Check for dead fish hidden in plants. Was filter cleaned with tap water?
Green water (pea soup)Algae bloom from excess light + nutrientsTurn off lights for 3 days (blackout). Cover tank with blanket.After blackout: reduce photoperiod to 6h for 2 weeks. UV sterilizer helps.
Hair algae everywhereToo much light, too little CO2, or nutrient imbalanceReduce light to 6h. Increase Carbon by 25%. Manually remove what you can.Check NO3 (if >30: reduce feeding). Ensure Ferox/Fosfo dosers are working.
Plants melting suddenlyMajor parameter swing or chemical contaminationTest all parameters. 30% WC.Did you spray anything near the tank (air freshener, cleaning products)? Was filter cleaned with tap water?
White spots on fish (Ich)Parasitic disease, usually from new fishRaise temperature to 28C over 24h. This alone kills Ich.Keep at 28C for 10 days. No need for medication in most cases. Quarantine new fish in the future.
Doser not dispensingClogged tube, empty container, mechanical faultCheck container level. Clean dispensing tube.Manually dose the missed amount. Fix/replace doser.
RULE OF THUMB: When in doubt, do a 20-30% water change. It rarely makes things worse and often helps. Use AquaFresh and add slowly.
Things That Will Kill Your Fish (NEVER Do These)
NEVER add fish before the cycle is complete (NH3=0, NO2=0)
NEVER clean filter media under tap water (use tank water only)
NEVER add untreated tap water (always AquaFresh first, even for small top-ups)
NEVER pour 90L of new water in all at once (slow drip 45-60 min)
NEVER use soap, detergent, or household cleaners on anything that touches the tank
NEVER spray air freshener, insecticide, or cleaning products near the tank
NEVER add more than one batch of new fish per week (bioload shock)
NEVER replace all filter media at once (stagger replacements over months)